Cosmetic Grade Waxes - Easy Reference Guide for Home Use

Solid animal fats and natural source waxes are among the earliest raw materials used by man.

In ancient Egypt, the honeybee was viewed as a symbol of royalty and beeswax has been used in art and commerce for thousands of years. Traces of beeswax exist in the Lascaux cave paintings in France, are present in the mummies of ancient Egypt, in Roman times it was used as a waterproofing medium for painted walls, and during the Middle Ages beeswax was a form of currency.

The origin of the word "wax" is from the Old English "weax" meaning "to grow", and first referred to animal or plant-derived lipids - naturally occurring water-loving (hydrophilic) substances made up of fats, waxes, sterols, and fat-soluble vitamins. Yet in modern usage, the term “wax” also describes varied chemical-derived lipids like those found in mineral and petroleum substances.

The animal and plant lipids found in waxes are multifaceted blends of alcohols, fatty acids and esters each with their own unique characteristics. These natural lipids originate from the protective coating on plant leaves and fruits, as well as from skin, fat, and oil glands of animals and insects. Some of these waxes can even be obtained from algae, fungi, bacteria, some minerals, and the fat of planktonic crustacea like water fleas and krill.

When used in cosmetic preparations self-emulsifying waxes give body to formulations and provide a base for ingredients; they behave as emulsifiers and thickening agents, have naturally occurring moisturizing emollients, and form a protective film-like layer to reduce water loss. Waxes can be found in all sorts of cosmetics, including lipsticks, lotions, hair pomades, balms, ointments, mascara, foundations, eye shadows, and skin care and body creams.

Bayberry wax also known as "bayberry tallow" or "myrtle wax," is one of the most prized natural waxes. This scarce and expensive natural wax it is obtained by boiling the berries and then collecting the accumulated waxy coating that floats to the surface - it takes about 15 pounds of bayberries to make a mere one pound of bayberry wax. A beneficial emulsifier in cosmetic applications, it consists of glycerides and fatty acids like stearic, palmitic, myristic, and a small amount of oleaic acid. Bayberry wax tends to be very hard and brittle with a natural greenish tint and a fresh organic aroma.

Beeswax is a waxy substance excreted from glands found in the underbelly of honeybees (Apis mellifera). This wax, which also contains pollen from an array of plants and flowers, is used to build the hexagonal cell of the honeycomb where honey is stored.

Beeswax works as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and humectant and has emollient, soothing and softening properties, is healing, antiseptic, and helps skin to retain moisture. Cosmetic grade beeswax is white when filtered, making it ideal for use in cosmetics, salves, ointments, creams and lotions.

Block forms of beeswax are most common, although pastilles or pellets, or flakes are available for smaller portioning. The color of beeswax varies from yellow to brown and even black. The variation in color is believed to be from the pollen deposited by the honeybees.

Candelilla wax, or Candelilla Cera, is a natural vegetable wax extracted from the surface or outer coating of a candelilla plant, tree or shrub that grows in the deserts of northern Mexico (Euphorbia cerifera, Euphorbia antisyphillitica and Pedilanthus pavonis). Softer than Carnauba wax, it is still a tough, brittle wax, light yellow in color and usually packaged in pellet form.

Candelilla wax is readily used in food and is an effective emollient in cosmetic preparations such as lipsticks, lip balms, creams, pomades, lotions, ointments, mascaras, glosses, body butters, and other products. Because of its high ester, fatty acid and resin properties it is a great ingredient in skin care applications and is a vegan alternative to beeswax.

Candelilla wax is compatible with most animal, vegetable and mineral waxes and can be used as a substitute for beeswax or Carnauba wax in cosmetic recipes. This wax is not a known skin irritant.

Carnauba wax, sometimes called Brazil wax, is one of the hardest cosmetic waxes. Carnauba wax is a natural vegetable wax obtained from the leaves of the carnauba palm tree (Copernicia prunifera) native to Brazil and referred to as the "Tree of Life".

A very hard, thick wax with a high melting point, it is typically used in furniture waxes, lipsticks, and cosmetic formulations that need a durable barrier medium. Its emollient and moisturizing properties make it good a skin protectant and it performs well in lip balms, lipsticks, body butters, protective creams and lotions, salves, ointments, and hair pomades. Carnauba wax is often used with beeswax or Candelilla wax and is compatible with most other natural and synthetic waxes and resins. Carnauba wax is not a known skin irritant.

Floral wax is a solid, creamy plant wax (similar to beeswax) obtained from flower petals. It provides thickness and behaves as an emollient in creams lotions and balms, along with properties that soften, moisturize, and soothe.

Japan wax "Araki Star-Cherry" is a pale yellow solid wax obtained from the outer-coating of the berry kernels from certain sumacs native to Japan and China, such as Japanese sumac tree (Rhus verniciflua) and Japanese wax tree (R. succedanea) . Japan wax is chiefly used to make candles, soaps, pharmaceuticals, foods and food packaging, cosmetics. and as a substitute for beeswax. This wax is also known as Japan tallow, sumac wax, sumach wax, and vegetable wax.

Natural wax jelly or Gel wax is made from all-natural waxes including castor seed oil, hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax and Carnauba wax. This wax is used as a natural alternative for petroleum based waxes and can be a base for lip balms, pomades, creams, or lotions. All of the ingredients used in making natural wax jelly are food-grade quality with no known safety risks.

Palm wax is a pure vegetable wax obtained from the oil palm of Southeast Asia. The oil palm produces fruit in bunches which, through a refining process, become palm wax. It is used as a substitute for cocoa butter, maintains fragrance and essential oils well, and blends readily with other waxes. Palm wax usually comes in flake form and can be used alone or as an additive to other natural or synthetic waxes.

Rice bran wax is the vegetable wax obtained during the refining process of extracting rice bran oil from rice bran (Oryza sativa cera). Rice bran wax contains fatty alcohols and free fatty acids like palmitic acid, squalane and phospholipids. Its antioxidant properties are extremely beneficial to skin; it works as an emollient and brings “glide or slip” to creams and lotions. Rice bran wax also functions well as a substitute for Carnauba wax.

Soy wax is rather recent invention created as a more affordable alternative to beeswax. Soy wax is an all-natural wax made from the soy bean. This wax is a vegan friendly alternative to petroleum wax and animal wax and is nontoxic, biodegradable and environmentally safe. Natural soy wax can replace beeswax in most recipes including those for lip balm, lotions, lipsticks, body butters, creams, lotions and hair pomades. It also combines well with both fragrance and essential oils.

Petroleum based products became a popular alternative for natural source waxes because they were readily available, less expensive and more dependable then raw natural source waxes. However, with the movement toward more organic and natural ingredients, their popularity is waning.

Ceresin is a waxy mixture of hydrocarbons obtained by purification of ozokerite, a naturally occurring mineral wax. A mineral wax, like paraffin, ceresin is made up of hydrocarbons, which are organic compounds consisting wholly of hydrogen and carbon, and are appropriate for personal care products including hair pomades, perfumes, deodorant, and cosmetics i.e., mascara, eyeliner pencil, lipstick, moisturizing creams and sun blocks.

Emulsifying wax can be a vegetable wax or a petroleum-based wax made from naturally occurring fats and esters, plus cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol for emollient, emulsifying, thickening properties. The wax material is then treated with a detergent (normally sodium dodecyl sulfate or polysorbates) to create an emulsion.

As an ingredient in cosmetics, it creates a bond between water and oil and prevents creams and lotions from separating. Available in convenient pastille or flake forms, the white waxy pellets or flakes melt well with other fats and waxes.

~ Emulsifying wax is sometimes followed by the initials NF to signify quality compliance by conforming to the specifications of the National Formulary (N.F.) meaning it is considered noncomedogenic and safe for cosmetic use.

Microcrystalline “Sticky” wax is a man-made synthetic substitute for the more expensive natural beeswax and is compatible with all varieties of oils and waxes. Microcrystalline wax is a refined mixture of solid, saturated aliphatic (non-carcinogenic carbon compound) hydrocarbons, and is a result of petroleum distillation that is free of harmful substances. It has the ability to bind oils and solvents to insure uniformity in formulations and works well in stick cosmetics such as lipstick and lip balm. Microcrystalline waxes differ from refined paraffin waxes because they have a crystal structure that is much finer. Use microcrystalline wax in the smallest amount possible depending on its purpose.

Montan wax is a hard fossilized vegetable wax obtained by extraction of woody coals formed from peat (lignite). The crude wax has a dark brown to light yellow color, but becomes white after purification. Montan wax is nontoxic and resistant to decomposition making it appropriate in many applications in conjunction with virtually all other types of wax including paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, montanic ester waxes, and Carnauba wax.

Ozokerite wax is a multifunctional naturally occurring fossil wax derived from veins in sandstones found near soft shale. It is widely used in cosmetics due to its emulsifying and emollient properties and is well suited for use in creams and lotions ointments and salves. It helps prevent emulsions from separating and has excellent oil retention characteristics. It also lends strength and consistency to assorted stick formulations like lipstick, lip balm, concealers, and deodorants. Ozokerite has a low to medium melt point, is available in pellet form, and is compatible with most vegetable and mineral waxes as well as mineral oils and petrolatum. Formulated into specialty waxes, ozokerite waxes are nontoxic and nonhazardous.

Paraffin wax, also known as Petroleum wax, is fully refined product of fossilized tiny aquatic plants and animals that lived in the ancient seas millions of years ago. It is difficult for water to penetrate paraffin wax thereby making it an excellent occlusive for barrier protection. Compatible with most animal, vegetable and mineral waxes and a large variety of natural and synthetic resins, it has the ability to blend with any number of wax based products making it a vital ingredient in polishes and cosmetics.

The quality of paraffin wax is determined by the extent of the refining process. Highly refined paraffin waxes are suitable for making drugs and cosmetics and are nontoxic. Paraffin waxes are either sold as a liquid or in block, pastille or granule form. Paraffin wax may cause allergic reactions in some individuals.

For user-friendly homemade cosmetics, select waxes that are pure and contain no fillers, synthetics, debris, or unrelated fragrances.

Nearly all waxes are nontoxic to skin, though some waxes (depending on their source) may cause allergic reactions to those prone to sensitivity. An example of this is that light yellow, golden or deep brown colored beeswax may indicate the presence of pollens, resins and other natural impurities, many of which are known allergens.

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